Journal

Notes from a Kyoto local

Small stories from the city I walk every day — where locals eat, the festival before the crowds, the quiet after dark.

Higashiyama

Higashiyama After Dark

At night Higashiyama is still wonderfully empty. Walk it under the orange streetlamps — and on a rainy night, when the wet stone glows, it's most beautiful of all.

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Gion Matsuri

Gion Matsuri, the Nights Before the Crowds

When the floats go up, I know summer has arrived. The night I love most is a few before the procession — lanterns, music, and the streets still quiet.

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Nishiki

A Local Morning at Nishiki

The Nishiki I love best is the one at eight in the morning — before the shutters go up for visitors, when the shops run by Kyoto locals are busy with the day's prep.

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